I’m a big believer in club fitting but I’m also as big a believer in retrofitting – adjusting the clubs you already own to get a better result.
The reality is that sometimes our swings change but often those changes are small enough that a simple tweak to your equipment makes more sense than burning it to the ground and starting over.
It’s also true that sometimes we just go through phases. When that happens, you might just need a small fix to sustain you until things return to whatever your individual version of “normal” happens to look like.
One of the most common issues golfers face is the dreaded slice. The cause is invariably rooted in a mix of face-to-path relationships and impact location. That’s all well and (not so) good but golfers are likely more interested in solutions than the problem itself.
Lessons or a new driver might be the best approach but, today, let’s focus on four things you can try to kill your slice with the driver you already have.
This shouldn’t need to be said but this is the internet, so …. Think of the suggestions on this list as levers. Not every driver has the same levers and the power of those levers will vary between models. I can’t guarantee everything on this list will be applicable to your driver.
Moving on …
1. Crank up the loft
Adding loft can help fight a slice in two different ways.
First: When you add loft (taking the hosel from neutral to +2 for example), it also closes the face. Broadly, most of where the ball starts comes from where the face is pointing so pointing your driver’s face a bit more left (for right-handed golfers) is going to help that sweeping fade end up not quite as far right.
Second: Sparing you the technical details around spin loft (the relationship between your attack angle and loft delivered to the ball at impact), as spin loft increases, it becomes harder to curve the ball. Granted, at driver lofts we’re not talking about a huge impact but it can be helpful.
2. Tweak the lie angle
If your driver has a lie-angle setting, consider adjusting it to make the clubhead more upright. In much the same way as adding loft does, making your lie angle more upright can help promote a more left-sided starting line.
3. Drop some weight in the heel
If you have an adjustable weight driver and that driver offers a heel position, moving the heavier weight into that spot will create a bit of additional draw bias. By shifting weight toward the heel, what you’re really doing is decreasing the area of the face that will create what is sometimes called “cut spin.”
If your driver offers front-to-back weights instead of heel-to-toe, make sure to put the weight in the back position. Not only does the rear setting increase MOI but, in many cases, the back weight position is set slightly heel-ward of front.
If neither applies, you can always try the old-school approach and add some lead tape.
4. Shorten your shaft
I think most fitters would agree that today’s stock driver lengths are too long for many (if not the majority of) golfers. Today’s standard is 45.75 inches and many measure closer to 46 when subjected to the added scrutiny of a ruler.
Cutting down the shaft can help you swing the club on plane and may also improve your ability to square the face into impact.
Be aware that cutting the shaft will reduce swing weight and while you may prefer the lighter feeling, it also gives you the flexibility to add additional weight to the head. That can be through lead tape, a heavier weight (you can find heavier-than-stock weights for nearly every driver) or having a club builder add hot-melt glue inside the head.
While counterintuitive, some golfers will increase their average distance with a shorter shaft because they end up the center (or closer to center) of the clubface more often.
While I always suggest making one change at a time, you might need to stack changes to achieve the desired outcome (or at least a better outcome).
A bonus tip: Change shafts
The science of shaft fitting is imperfect but if your ball flight isn’t what it needs to be, a new shaft might help. There are no hard and fast rules but if you’re missing right, try something with a softer handle section and/or lower balance point that may help you square the face. Likewise, slicers sometimes benefit from a shaft with a higher relative torque value.
Again, this is in the bonus section because it’s strongly player-dependent (and you’ll likely have to spend some money). I also recommend working with a fitter (ideally one who’s willing to retrofit).
What I listed above are the most probable outcome but it’s certainly far from impossible that the opposite of everything I’ve said about the shaft might be the thing that works for you.
Be realistic
While some or all of the above can work to correct your slice, it amounts to treating the symptom rather than the root cause. There’s nothing wrong with that and I encourage you to do whatever is comfortable and helps you get more enjoyment out of the game. However, if you’re plagued by a chronic slice, I strongly recommend working with a qualified teacher in your area.
If you decide it’s time for a new driver, I’d also suggest working with a qualified fitter.
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What other challenges are you facing on the golf course or with your equipment? Let us know how we can help.
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