There are few places in the world where championship golf, myth-soaked landscapes, and culinary surprises come together as seamlessly as along Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast. Matt Nicholson’s recent trip to this stunning stretch of shoreline was a masterclass in why this region continues to capture the hearts of golfers and travellers alike.
A RIVER JOURNEY WITH SPIRIT
After arriving in Belfast and leaving the capital city behind, we drove north towards the Causeway Coast, our anticipation growing with every mile. But before settling into our base, we kicked off the trip in truly memorable style with a journey down the River Bann on the Spirit of the Bann, hosted by the welcoming Wendy Gallagher of Causeway Coast Foodie Tours.
ABOARD THE MV KINGFISHER
This wasn’t just any boat ride. Aboard the MV Kingfisher a beautifully restored vessel originally crafted by Belfast’s famed Harland and Wolff shipbuilders we drifted along the gentle curves of the Bann, soaking up the sunshine, history, and local flavour.
The tour celebrates Northern Ireland’s rich food and drink heritage, with an onboard showcase from Dunluce Distillery.
FOOD ONBOARD THE SPIRIT OF THE BANN
As we passed the ancient site of Mountsandel, considered one of the earliest known human settlements in Ireland, it was hard not to feel immersed in something timeless.
With glasses raised and the sun reflecting off the river, it was the perfect way to ease into the rhythm of the coast.
A COASTAL RETREAT AT ELEPHANT ROCK
Our base for the next two nights was the Elephant Rock Hotel in the heart of Portrush and what a find it was.
Owned and lovingly run by Charlotte Dixon, the hotel is a perfect reflection of her vision: stylish, full of personality, and effortlessly welcoming.
Housed in a beautifully restored Victorian townhouse, it combines period charm with bold, contemporary flair, think colourful interiors, thoughtful design touches, and an atmosphere that instantly puts you at ease.
ELEPHANT ROCK
From the moment we stepped through the door, we felt like more than just guests, we felt like part of the family.
It’s the kind of place that understands what travelling golfers need: a upremely comfortable bed, a great breakfast, and a genuine warmth that makes you look forward to coming back at the end of the day.
Whether you’re here for the links or simply to unwind by the sea, Elephant Rock is an absolute gem.
DINING AND FIRST ROUNDS
That evening, we dined at Shanty, one of Portrush’s rising culinary stars. Located right on the water, the menu celebrates fresh local produce and Northern Irish seafood.
It was the kind of meal that sets the tone for the rest of a trip thoughtful, delicious, and deeply satisfying.
In the morning, we made our way to Castlerock Golf Club, located just west of Coleraine.
Perched where the River Bann meets the Atlantic, Castlerock is a classic links course carved into rolling dunes with views that stretch across to Donegal and, on a clear day, even as far as Scotland and Islay.
CASTLEROCK GOLF CLUB (MUSSENDEN COURSE)
We tackled the Mussenden Links, Castlerock’s championship layout.
Designed to test even seasoned players, the course delivers everything you’d hope for from a traditional links: undulating fairways, unpredictable winds, and natural beauty in abundance.
I played surprisingly well, which always helps and the post-round fish and chips in the welcoming clubhouse were well-earned and well-enjoyed.
The atmosphere here was laid-back and warm, with the kind of hospitality that instantly makes you feel like a member.
GIANTS, CASTLES, AND COASTLINES
No trip to this region would be complete without a visit to the legendary Giant’s Causeway, and after our round at Castlerock, we headed there
in the afternoon sun.
The site more than lives up to its billing. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Causeway’s landscape of interlocking basalt columns was formed over 60 million years ago by volcanic activity or, if local legend is to be believed, by the mighty giant Fionn mac Cumhaill, who built the pathway to challenge a Scottish rival.
The 20-minute walk from the visitor centre to the stones is worth every step.
AT THE GIANTS CAUSEWAY
Along the way, you’ll spot distinctive formations like the Wishing Chair, the Camel, and the Harp.
The visitor centre itself, built to blend seamlessly into the landscape, is a marvel of eco-friendly design and offers everything from interactive exhibits to audio tours.
On our way back, we made time for a stop at Dunluce Castle. Perched dramatically on a cliff edge, this medieval ruin is steeped in myth and mystery.
Its strategic position and tumultuous history from early Irish settlers to sieges and shipwrecks – make it one of the most evocative sights on the Antrim coast.
DRAMATICALLY PERCHED ON A CLIFF EDGE, DUNLUCE CASTLE STANDS AS A HAUNTINGLY BEAUTIFUL RELIC OF NORTHERN IRELAND’S MEDIEVAL PAST
THE NIGHT BEFORE PORTRUSH
Back in Portrush, dinner that evening was at Wine Bar, Ramore Restaurants, where the food, as always in Northern Ireland, was top-notch. From fresh seafood to creative desserts, every course was a winner.
Later, we headed to one of the true institutions of Irish golf culture: the Harbour Bar. Packed with memorabilia and stories, it’s arguably the finest 19th hole in the country maybe the world.
Jerseys, photographs, scorecards, and signatures line the walls, chronicling a rich history of visiting golfing greats.
JUST SOME OF THE MEMORABILIA ON SHOW IN THE HARBOUR BAR
The bar has become an unofficial clubhouse for the international golf community.
We soaked in the atmosphere over a couple of pints before calling it a night, there was a big round ahead.
THE DUNLUCE AWAKENING
After a restful night at Elephant Rock and a hearty breakfast, the time had come. Royal Portrush Golf Club’s Dunluce Links awaited, the crown jewel of Northern Irish golf and the host of this year’s Open Championship.
It had been more than two decades since my last visit to Portrush, and much had changed, not least the addition of two new holes introduced ahead of Shane Lowry’s triumphant 2019 Open win.
The clubhouse, rich with history and alive with Open memorabilia, was a joy to explore. The Claret Jug gleamed in its glass case, surrounded by photos and stories of legends past.
ONE OF THE MANY DISPLAY CABINETS AT ROYAL PORTRUSH GC
We teed off as dawn broke, first on the course, with a stiff 30mph wind rolling in off the Atlantic. Gary, our Forecaddie, was an absolute gem, full of insight, good humour, and stories from the Open. In 2019, he was even asked to caddie during the qualifying rounds.
The wind made every shot an adventure, and Gary rated the conditions a solid 9/10 on the difficulty scale.
The back nine brought more stability in my game, aided by a quick bite and a coffee at the halfway hut.
By the end of the round, I was reluctant to leave the fairways behind. This was links golf at its most thrilling, most authentic, and most humbling.
SOAKING IN THE MOMENT AT ROYAL PORTRUSH ON ONE OF GOLF’S MOST ICONIC LINKS
Still, nothing could detract from the sheer quality of the course. Each hole is a masterpiece, rugged, strategic, and breath-taking. The highlight came at the fearsome Calamity Corner, the par-3 16th stretching 235 yards across a gaping chasm.
Armed with my driver, I managed to find the back of the green and two-putted for a proud par. It’s one of the most iconic par-3s in golf and for good reason.
ROYAL PORTRUSH (Photo by David Cannon/Getty Images)
FAREWELL FROM THE CLUBHOUSE
We wrapped up with lunch back at the Royal Portrush clubhouse, swapping stories and soaking in the view one last time.
There’s a special energy in the air here, part history, part community, and part elemental force from the coast itself.
Driving back to Belfast to catch the flight home, I reflected on what made the trip so unforgettable.
Yes, the golf was world-class. Yes, the scenery was out of this world. But it was also the people, the caddies, the hoteliers, the restaurateurs, and fellow travellers, who made it special.
Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast offers much more than a golf trip. It’s a full-bodied experience, rich in culture, wrapped in history, and topped with a touch of magic.
Travel Tips: Playing & Staying Along the Causeway Coast
GETTING THERE
Fly into Belfast International (BFS) or George Best Belfast City Airport (BHD). Both offer easy access to the Causeway Coast (approx. 1–1.5 hrs by car). Car hire is essential to explore the area properly — especially if you’re hauling golf clubs. Golf News flew with Easyjet www.easyjet.com
MUST-PLAY COURSES
Royal Portrush (Dunluce Links) – Host of The Open. Book well in advance. www.royalportrushgolfclub.com
Castlerock Golf Club – A beautiful, challenging links course with local charm. www.castlerockgc.co.uk
Consider adding Portstewart Golf Club if you’re extending your trip. www.portstewartgc.co.uk
WHERE TO STAY
Elephant Rock Hotel, Portrush, Stylish, family-run boutique hotel ideal for golfers. Great food, great location, and warm hospitality. www.elephantrockhotel.co.uk
EAT & DRINK
Shanty (Portrush) – Fresh, seafood-driven menu with coastal views. www.shantyportrush.com
Ramore Wine Bar – Local favourite with a buzzing atmosphere. www.ramorerestaurant.com
Harbour Bar, Portrush – A must-visit for golfers. Packed with memorabilia and great craic. www.ramorerestaurant.com/restaurant/ harbour-bar/
DON’T MISS
Giant’s Causeway – Go early or late to beat the crowds. Use the clifftop trail for dramatic views. www.nationaltrust.org. uk/visit/northern-ireland/giants-causeway
Dunluce Castle – One of the most photogenic ruins in Ireland. www. discovernorthernireland.com
Spirit of the Bann Tour – Relaxing, local, and full of flavour. www.causewaycoastfoodietours.com
BEST TIME TO VISIT
May–September offers the best chance of decent weather and course conditions. Summer evenings are long — perfect for twilight rounds.
PRO TIP
If playing Royal Portrush, request a forecaddie they’ll help you navigate the wind, read the greens, and add local colour to your round.
REMEMBER
Northern Ireland is part of the common travel area, meaning there are no travel restrictions for British travellers.
For more information visit: www.Ireland.com/northernireland
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